Moveable Feast: Irish Feast

Moveable Feast: Joe Dowling

The most interesting thing happening in Irish food — and not too far from the Guthrie — is the recent reboot of a longtime Irish pub called Dan Kelly's in downtown Minneapolis.

Even with its relatively central location, it tended to blend into the downtown as one of several run of the mill, low-key, after-work establishments in the area. But it was purchased by the owners of Republic who have demonstrated they know how to do "better" bar concept with upgraded food and drink.

The food is traditional, but lighter and more nuanced flavor than what you typically think of for bland, starchy Irish fare. They source more local and organic ingredients and do scratch cooking.

Particularly delicious was the Dublin Coddle (a riff on bangers and mash), the chicken pot pie, and the lamb stew.

It has a nice, cozy, relaxed atmosphere which can be a good alternative to the spots Kieran Folliard launched, which tend to be loud and crowded as if you're at Epcot Center's Irish pavilion.

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